Our problem – rotten wires under isolation. Even engineers fuck things up pretty well. Too much is done for improvement with opposite result.
I took wire of same diameter from old auto cables, connected with terminals and soldered.
https://www.drive2.ru/c/510655257332679422/ - Audi 80 B4 задние динамики
This door panel is disassembled for the first time. I broke 8A0 867 725 window frame rubber, but I’ll put it back with a glue. Old rubber parts tend to break very easily. Door is in great shape. Little corrosion on window raiser lever and treble speaker cable fastening. Window winder crank handle was the hardest to remove. Take your time and do everything slowly. Installing lock door handle is challenging, but try to put it half size below it's socket to fix the hook. Use long magnetic screwdriver to fix lock door handle. Foam rubber is a disaster...
Problem: rear bass speakers do not work, treble speakers work.
That’s what you get, when savages repair your car:
I was experiencing strange freezes on Kubuntu. It started since upgrade to 23.04. It happens when PC works few hours with turned off monitor and it never happened with turned on monitor. I was using Pragha player. Also there may be extensive disk operations on background, etc. Freeze continued after upgrade to 24.04. Playback glitches and keyboard becomes unresponsive. Only hard reset helps.
I have Power Bank and it won't charge type-C phone directly, but I discovered that it can charge it with so called charger doctor - cheap volt and amp meter. Just plug charger doctor into Power Bank USB, connect your phone and you have it - charges like a charm.
Bought this shit on Aliexpress. It’s worthless junk. One good part in it is plastic case. Seller didn’t publish my review, but I had to write smth at least here. It has low quality tape head. You can get better from broken player or tape recorder. 3.5mm jack cable is very cheap and GND is soldered to one channel which produces only mono. Plastic wheels squeak and crack while playing which irritates. Also it catches interference from car electronics producing background hiss.
1. Check wires. Short 2 contacts on 053 919 501 A that shows temp on dashboard.
2. Put ignition key and switch on car (don't start). If temp gauge arrow moves to 90, switch off.
3. DO NO HOLD ignition making arrow reach max temp, because you risk damaging the gauge.
4. If temp is not stable - sometimes shows lower, sometime 100, change 053 919 501 A.
5. If new 053 919 501 A didn't help, check thermostat hose - warm means thermostat is open, fans switch on means that radiator switch works. Working temp is 90-95 is OK on ABT engine. Then check dashboard itself. Maybe problem is in gauge contacts or voltage regulator.
6. 053 919 501 A only shows temp and signals about overheating on dashboard.
7. 053 919 501 A DO NOT SWITCH ON the fans on radiator.
8. Fan switch is located at the bottom of radiator on thick thermostat line at engine bottom.
9. Car gets coolant, it reaches 85, thermostat opens, coolant moves to fan switch on radiator heating it to 95, fans cool down the engine to 90 or less and cycle repeats.
10. Cap on coolant tank should not be tight to release pressure.
BS71-13A602-BE. Перестали світити габаритні діоди. Причина — найнижчий діод змок і закоротив, тому решта діодів погано світили, ледь-ледь мерехтячи. На клемі 1 мінус і 3 плюси — габарити, задній і ходове. На щастя у фарі лише 1 плата з діодами. Витягнув її за допомогою паяльника. Головне робити все повільно й акуратно. Плату тримають дві клеєві соплі. Протер спиртом, прогрів феном, закоротив контакти на згорілому діоді й інші засяяли мов ясне сонце. З дуру заморочився випаювання конденсатора на 10 мкФ, бо видався підозрілим. Узагалі діоди прекрасно світять і без нього. Наразі шукатиму заміну та припаяю новий діод, хоча можна із 2 їздити. Діоди міцно припаяні. Можна вирвати доріжки. Паяти повітрям із протилежного боку плати, залудивши попередньо ніжки. Не розумію нахрена ліпити діоди із платами без можливостей обслуговування. Лампи досить.
