Just change 2 1000uF 16V capacitors marked with red.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aF-KEyGwG9c - Замена конденсаторов БП. Монитор Samsung SyncMaster T220G. Не включается, мигает индикатор питания
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhssTRB_N2U - Ремонт монітору Samsung T220
Solder two contacts on top of 470k resistor and get constant max power.
Car stalled at the middle of the road. F8 20A fuse blown. Crappy Ford's user manual says: Powertrain control module. Brief and straight to the point.
After diagnosis it turned out the problem is on ECU Delphi DCM3.5 black connector line. Brown and grey connectors are OK. Test was very simple - 12V 40W lamp connected to F8 fuse contacts. When car door is opened, car activated and lamp glows, when door is shut, after a while PCM relay turns off the lamp. Something shorts F8 line when car is active. If you try ignition to crank car, lamp or fuse will burn.
Sophisticated electrical problem? Almost all connectors were checked but lamp glows. Finally air filter was removed, headlight was removed and broken wires were found. Modern engineering at it's best. Weak protection against rubbing and stupid location. Looks like one wire broke, shorted and burned few other wires. Here is the lesson: do not mess with electronics before checking physical lines.
Very fortunate that this damage happened on low speed in the city. On highway such thing may be lethal. Overall Mondeo 4 is good car but engineering decisions on horn and ECU location, shitty wire isolation, absence of mechanical locks on passenger and trunk doors, "non-serviceable" diodes in tail lights are annoying, not counting gas pedal glitches, interior air filter change and other trifles to mess with. Ave enshittification, morituri te salutant.
3 screws at the bottom. 4 screws behind water tray. Pull case bottom gently, remove top cover and unscrew 2 screws under it.
Маю, як на 12 В, так і на 24 В. Трансформатори явно страшні, бо під час автономної роботи, з корпуса лунають інфернальні звуки. Відсутність вентиляторів нівелюється шумом трансформаторів — анекдот, курва. Це основна претензія. Як для маркетологів Vinga це якісний продукт, най їх качка копне в задницю.
230V AC > transformer > 8.5V AC > 4 diode bridge rectifier > 1 orange CC 103 10nf > EC 16V 2200uF > 6.5V 500mA outputs 10V without load and 3.5V with 150mA radio load.
Закоротив діод BYV44 500V і згорів запобіжник. Замінив діод і поставив скляний запобіжник 2А, що напевне забагато. Можна було 0.5-1А.
Запрацював. Споживає 60 Вт, а не 400, як зазначено на етикетці. Suntan 2J474J, 1000uF 35V, NPN 66T19, 1N4007 (M7) 1A, TYN840, Suntan TSR-3296W...
After changing the battery UPS transformer don’t switch on, logic don’t power on. Only display works. “IN LINE 600V-200VA II” “11-089400-05” PCB board but also found it as 12-089411-00-1737 / E.11.6300731-04. This PCB board is used on Vinga VPC-1200, Sven UP-L1000E and other UPS. Didn’t find diagram.
Smartphone works nicely with Blaupunkt SC 202 car radio DIY AUX but hiss is pronounced after 50+ volume level. It’s not big deal, because I don’t listen louder than 50% in car. Outside one don’t hear any hiss at all. Some people recommend to change capacitors on amplifiers but I decided to leave as it is. According to LCR-T4 old capacitors have high ESR but acceptable. To get less hiss, turn high volume on phone and low volume on car radio. Old cheap phone produces more hiss comparing with modern one.
When phone is charging in cigarette lighter, sound becomes distorted. Is it so called GND looping? Tried additional GND cable from car body to car radio, but it made no difference. Ideally I need to GND cigarette lighter same way as car radio. It’s pain...
Phone usually is charged 100% and it won’t discharge much in 4 hours, so I can live with this. As alternative I can use mp3 player with AA battery. Anyway task is accomplished – preserved original radio and added new functionality.
Вибираючи акуми, завжди шукаєш найнижчу ціну та найвищу якість, але чудес не буває. Багато спілкувався з китайцями. Переважно ухиляються. Все в них A grade. Траплялися приємні випадки — відмовляли від покупки говноакумуляторів, пояснюючи, що й як.
Довгий час користуюся LiFePO4 батареями 6A-25A та не заморочувався BMS. Такі батареї відносно дешеві та в разі чогось їх не дуже шкода, а відповідна BMS коштує. Розбіги були незначні. Що там розбіги?! Ніколи не міряв опір банок і не зважав на здуття. Щоб витиснути з батарей максимум, потрібні мінімальний опір провідників та якісне з’єднання, але навіть 16 мм кабель створює незручності, що говорити про товщі. Краще починати з 24В, а не з 12В, якщо навантаження понад 1 кВт - економія на BMS і дротах - хоча як DYKB або ще яка дешівка... Отримали +90% ємності - батареї нові, а -80% - старі.
Backlight is not working properly. Some lamps do not light at all, some from time to time. Few capacitors leaked near cassette mechanism. Pronounced hiss in speakers above half volume range. Amplifier becomes very hot and distorts sound on high volume when playing from cassette adapter. Need AUX to play music from phone, because adapters and modulators suck as hell.
Our problem – rotten wires under isolation. Even engineers fuck things up pretty well. Too much is done for improvement with opposite result.
I took wire of same diameter from old auto cables, connected with terminals and soldered.
https://www.drive2.ru/c/510655257332679422/ - Audi 80 B4 задние динамики
This door panel is disassembled for the first time. I broke 8A0 867 725 window frame rubber, but I’ll put it back with a glue. Old rubber parts tend to break very easily. Door is in great shape. Little corrosion on window raiser lever and treble speaker cable fastening. Window winder crank handle was the hardest to remove. Take your time and do everything slowly. Installing lock door handle is challenging, but try to put it half size below it's socket to fix the hook. Use long magnetic screwdriver to fix lock door handle. Foam rubber is a disaster...
Problem: rear bass speakers do not work, treble speakers work.
That’s what you get, when savages repair your car:
I have Power Bank and it won't charge type-C phone directly, but I discovered that it can charge it with so called charger doctor - cheap volt and amp meter. Just plug charger doctor into Power Bank USB, connect your phone and you have it - charges like a charm.
Bought this shit on Aliexpress. It’s worthless junk. One good part in it is plastic case. Seller didn’t publish my review, but I had to write smth at least here. It has low quality tape head. You can get better from broken player or tape recorder. 3.5mm jack cable is very cheap and GND is soldered to one channel which produces only mono. Plastic wheels squeak and crack while playing which irritates. Also it catches interference from car electronics producing background hiss.
Температура невірно відображалася й 1 дня перестала взагалі. Поміняв датчик 053 919 501 A — не допомогло, хоча під час замикання проводки датчика стрілка відхилялася. Краще не замикати 12 В, а подати 6 В на контакти термометра, бо можна спалити сенсор стрілки.
